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Εισαγωγή

Crete's largest city and the main point of entry for tourists, Iraklio is often dismissed as a grim necessity that must be endured in order to get to somewhere more inviting. But scratch beneath its traffic-ridden, helter-skelter surface and you'll find a certain urban sophistication coupled with a lively cafe scene.

Iraklio's two main squares are Plateia Venizelou and Plateia Eleftherias. Plateia Venizelou, recognisable by its famous Morosini Fountain (better known as the Lion Fountain), is the heart of the city and the best place to familiarise yourself with Iraklio's layout. The city's major intersection is a few steps south of the square. From here, major arteries run northeast to the harbour, southeast to Plateia Eleftherias, west to Hania gate and south to the markets.

Your stay should at least be long enough to visit the outstanding Archaeological Museum (second in size and importance only to the National Archaeological Museum in Athens), the Historical Museum of Crete (evidence of Crete's Venetian past), the city walls, the fortress of Rocca al Mare and, of course, Plateia Venizelou and its lion fountain.

Also in the vicinity of Plateia Venizelou is El Greco Park, the rustic centre of Iraklio's civic sprawl. This is where you'll find the greatest concentration of cheapish rooms and quite a few upmarket restaurants and cafes. South of the plaza, past Lion's Square, you'll find Dedalou Street in the Korai area. It's renowned for its cafes and, although a Dedalous Street cafe latte is pretty pricey, the area has a certain high-velocity ambience that is pure Iraklio.

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